To get there we had to cross the Ganges, which we achieved by clinging to the edge of a pontoon bridge that rattled and rolled as rickshaws, motorbikes and people moved their way across. 
Once safely across we made our way past boat builders and fishermen resting at the riverbank and we launched an attack on the perimetre of the fort!! 
The view looking up from the shoreline to the fort that's crumbling in places and intricately carved in others, was breathtaking. The negative side of our adventuring was the fact that at one point we found ourselves literally walking through an open air toilet, with "remains" carpeting the sandy shore. Needless to say Liv marched us away pretty quickly after that - even though we found it rather disgusting it didn't seem to worry the boys and men doing their washing (clothing and themselves) and yoga just metres away.With hours to kills we decided to go into the front entrance of the fort and into the museum, which although disappointing it meant we were able to climb to the top of the palace and get some good views out over the Ganges.
After we finally finished up with the Dr Lowell Stoltzfus (a great American doctor based at the Heritage Hospital ph. 05422506788, email drstoltzfus@swissmail.org ) we made it back into town and went straight to our favourite restaurant for some more delicious Indian curries and people-watching.
In the evening we did some more wandering along the riverside ghats, winding our way through children fighting each other for air space for their kites, holy men meditating in this sacred place, and sellers begging us to buy boat rides, jewellery and food. 
Here we had our first chai in a terracotta cup - even though it feels weird to smash your tea cup after you've finished a cup, it's also quite disturbingly fun and better for the environment than plastic cups!
As darkness fell small candles floated down the river, placed their by the faithful and tourists alike, and boats cruised the mirror-like surface of the Ganges.
Eventually we came across the Manikarnika Ghat, which is the main burning ghat in Varanasi. As the Ganges is such a sacred river in India, it is the most auspicious place to be cremated: it is believed that if you die and are cremated in Varanasi the cycle of life and death is ended. The bodies are first doused in the river and afterwards their ashes are returned to the flowing river that drew them to this holy place.
We were not expecting to come across this sight of several bodies being burned at the same time, and only watched for a few moments before making our way back to Dasaswamedh Ghat for the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony.
During this ceremony young men move in a series of segmented rituals - dancing gracefully to music and lighting incense and candles that left them shrouded in a layer of smoke that created an almost unearthly atmosphere.
Afterwards we stopped in for a snack and then made our way through unfamiliar alleyways, absorbing the colours of the stalls: billions of bangles sparkling under the lights; herbs and spices fighting a losing battle against the stench of the streets; silk scarves, clothing, and saris; copper and brass products for home and temple; and a multitude of other Indian wares.
Adlibing forts and riverside ceremonies.
Eventually we came across the Manikarnika Ghat, which is the main burning ghat in Varanasi. As the Ganges is such a sacred river in India, it is the most auspicious place to be cremated: it is believed that if you die and are cremated in Varanasi the cycle of life and death is ended. The bodies are first doused in the river and afterwards their ashes are returned to the flowing river that drew them to this holy place.We were not expecting to come across this sight of several bodies being burned at the same time, and only watched for a few moments before making our way back to Dasaswamedh Ghat for the nightly Ganga Aarti ceremony.
During this ceremony young men move in a series of segmented rituals - dancing gracefully to music and lighting incense and candles that left them shrouded in a layer of smoke that created an almost unearthly atmosphere.Afterwards we stopped in for a snack and then made our way through unfamiliar alleyways, absorbing the colours of the stalls: billions of bangles sparkling under the lights; herbs and spices fighting a losing battle against the stench of the streets; silk scarves, clothing, and saris; copper and brass products for home and temple; and a multitude of other Indian wares.Adlibing forts and riverside ceremonies.
No comments:
Post a Comment