Sunday, March 15, 2009

Day 647 - Elephant Pooh

Today we set off for a small 1km walk as an introduction into the National Park - as we arrived at the sign post however, we somehow decided to take the 5.8km Dong Ma Fai trail instead. This ended up being a good decision as we had an amazing day in the forest, where we didn't see another person and the only sounds we heard were of the birds flittering above us.
All around camp are signs cautioning us about elephants, and throughout the day we came across many signs of these huge animals but weren't lucky enough to see one in the flesh. We had to be satisfied with following their trails of poo and footprints in the mud!

Throughout the day the environment around us went through dramatic changes - initially we followed a river tinted brown by decaying leaves falling from the dense jungle that surrounded us. We slowly trekked our way up from the jungle below breaking into an evergreen forest open to the grey sky above and eventually ended up at a lookout that granted us views of a vast forest that was shedding its green and drying in the changing seasons.
From there we made a slippery descent through bamboo groves back down to the stream, where we stopped for a lunch of jam sandwiches and listened to the water bubbling and the other sounds around. We followed the stream back to camp and came across the only wildlife we saw during the day bigger than our hand: a beautiful bird with a large flowing tail trailing behind.
As we settled into camping life for the night we heard some roars in the distance - maybe an bear or a tiger ... who really knows?! One of the many benefits of almost being out in the middle of nowhere is that you get to see sunsets like this without the interruption of concrete civilisation. Adlibing a nature walk.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Day 646 - Heading for the hills

This morning we left Sukhothai, albeit a lot later than planned due to the rain clouds that dampened us on our walk to breakfast and the forecast of storms threatening our national park expedition, and headed for Nam Nao. As we drank coffee while waiting for the bus, we had the company of a couple of girls who took a break from their swings to look at the pictures in our guidebook and play simple games with us.

Nam Nao National Park in the Northeast of Thailand is not one of Thailand's more famous parks, which is part of the reason we decided to head there! Our bus dropped us off on the side of the highway where we began our walk towards the camping area - this walk was cut short when a couple of rangers offered us space in the back of their ute, saving us a 2km walk. The set up at this park is pretty amazing - there are loos and bucket showers all over the camping area, kept remarkably clean considering those using them are hiking through mud all day! There are bungalows for hire, but they are more for those with bulging wallets, so we opted for the 250 baht option of hiring a tent complete with sleeping bags and ground rolls (if you have your own tent it's only 30 baht per person to camp). When we arrived it was immediately clear that we were elevated, as it was much much colder than in Sukhothai, so before we went to one of the small restaurants for dinner we donned our merinos for the first time in a while - it's almost nice to be cold for a change!! At dinner our charade conversations continued as we successfully managed to convey that we wanted noodles - one with meat and one without!

During dinner darkness descended upon the national park and our thoughts drifted to the adventures we'd have exploring tomorrow in this 1000sq km park where 3 rivers originate and wild animals supposedly wait to be gazed upon!

Adlibing it into nature.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Day 645 - Lazy life

Today we re-payed our bodies for all their hard work under the energy sapping scorching sun the last few days, by hanging out at our guest house for the day... the entire day!!

We enjoyed time with books, and playing around on the internet as well as making a few trips the 500 meters or so into the town centre to feed our ice drink addiction and bellies.

Basically we had a holiday from our travelling, though Adam did do some exercise investigation by watching the open air aerobics, complete with a thumping base sound system and a stage for the leader who called out instructions over her microphone.Adlibing TR Guesthouse.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Day 644 - Going back for more Buddhas.

Today got off to a bad start as we tried to sort out some banking issues, in a small town where making international calls is not as simple as banks think they might be! Luckily, after 2 hours of perseverance, and some help from the locals, we found a call centre and spent far too long on hold with the bank, but finally sorted out one of our major problems!

After this we waved down a public pick up truck and eventually got the ride out the old town for free after disputing the fare he tried to charge us. Usually tourists catch the truck from new town to old town, for 20 baht, but we were catching it from half way - when he wanted to charge us the full rate we weren't willing to pay, but we think he wasn't quite sure how to deal with this, so he eventually just said "ok, you go for free". Sweet!

Our good luck (or bad behaviour?) continued when we managed to explore another part of the ruins for free, by some cunning manoeuvring around certain ticket offices, by taking dirt paths with trees for cover! This wasn't actually our intention when we started out, but once we didn't get char
ged at the first place we just walked past the ticket place at the second!The first place we went to was Wat Si Chum - a beautiful sitting Buddha with elongated fingers bathed in a gold coating, it was enchanting to watch as the gold flecks broke free and glistened in the wind as they gracefully floated towards the heavens to meet up with Buddha's head soaring into the sky. Even though this was an inspiring sight to see, it didn't really make for great pictures as we couldn't fit him in - so unfortunately you're not seeing Buddha in all his glory!!

After this we wandered our way through another temple complex, similar to Wat Mahathat we saw yesterday - but on a much smaller scale and the temples and statues here were in a much further state of ruin.
Although it's sad to see such important structures falling to pieces, it can add to the ancient feel of the place, as well as allowing our minds to drift back in time and playfully imagine how these magnificent structures appeared in the days of their creation. We wandered past some local men fishing silently on the edge of a tiny lake, a quick reminder that were were in present day Thailand and not lost in the 13th-16th century. We then made our way to Wat Chang Lom, a temple with elephant statues, that we watched bask in the golden glow of a setting sun, a perfect ending to our second day amongst the ruins. Adlibing it without paying.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Day 643 - Running around Sukhothai ruins

Su
khothai (meaning 'Dawn of happiness') was the first capital of Thailand, it is credited as the origin of the Thai alphabet and is a famous place to visit due to the amazing wealth of temple and ancient city ruins that are found all over Sukhothai Old Town.
Today we caught a public "pick-up truck" out to the old town and set about on foot to explore the main section of ruins. Most people check out the ruins by bike, but us cheap adlibers thought we would do it by foot, which subsequently left us at the mercy of the scorching sun for far too long.
Many of the ruins are now small blocks of crumbling foundations that were once great structures, others have incredible carvings, mainly depicting religious figures and scenes, lining ancient towers that climb towards the beckoning sky.
The highlights for us were the giant Buddha statues which were scattered all around the ruins, every time we stumbled upon a figure we would forget our current conversation and lose ourselves in their presence.
Even though neither of us are particularly religious, viewing these sacred statues was quite an experience - it's hard not to feel like you're looking at something important, if not immortal, when gazing up at these amazing 13th and 14th Century figures.After about 3 hours exploring, we were almost collapsing from heat exhaustion, so we decided to escape the heat and go for lunch and ice coffee/smoothies, now turning into an addiction in this insane heat of Thailand.

In the evening we headed back to the night markets for some more food, one of the daily adventures of travelling!

Adlibing it amongst Buddha.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Day 642 - Re-rolling railway tracks

We woke up bright and early at 5am this morning, only to decide we could probably manage another half an hour in bed before heading to the station for our train to Phitsanulok. Our 3rd class seats were nice - they even had padding: better than our first trip almost 2 years ago, when we had wooden seats with no designated seat numbers.

As we rolled along the same tracks as last time we enjoyed repeat sightings of things that had captivated us on our first journey, but it was even more exciting as we ventured into new territory - such as the old Lopburi ruins. 
This time the houses built out of corrugated iron beside the train tracks just made up another Asian community like many we've seen before - not as shocking as when we were Asian virgins. 

During the day on the train we watched as a small army of food ladies worked their way up and down the train with their baskets of goodies tempting the train travellers with their treats.Once we arrived in Phitsanulok we made it easily to the bus station for our bus to Sukhothai - the only strange thing that we encountered were the number of lady boys around. Our bus conductor was a lady boy, and it was so interesting to see how accepted she is in Thai culture - we question how accepted she would be in NZ.

In Sukhothai we decided to walk the 1km into town from the bus station (despite everyone telling us it was 4km away!) and soon found a great guesthouse at a bargain price.

We were pretty tired from our early start and all day travelling, so we had a few hours snooze before heading to the night markets for dinner. Here we stayed away from the stalls with English menus and opted to sit amongst the locals and devour pad thai under the stars.

Adlibing it away from Bangkok.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Day 641 - A Thai Temple Tour

Today we finally managed to so some sightseeing around Bangkok - with the majority of our stops at some of Bangkok's most famous temples. Our first destination was at the Wat Phra Kaew - the temple that houses the small but significant Emerald Buddha - and the adjacent Grand Palace. Both of these are amazing in their glistening golden glamour - we'd rec commend everyone taking a pair of sunnies to block the reflecting brightness!!!
The place is almost over the top, with so many different temples packed in a small area - you just don't know where to look, but luckily for us anywhere the eyes fall is an excellent choice.
After spending a few hours here we made our way to a small Thai restaurant for lunch, before heading over to Wat Pho. After spending so much money in the last few days shopping, we were making our way around between sights by foot, while most other foreigners zoomed by in tuk-tuks!!
In Wat Pho we were blown away by the largest reclining Buddha in Thailand, and enjoyed wandering the grounds - Adam in particular enjoyed checking out (and attempting to copy a few) the stone statues depicting yoga positions scattered around the gardens.

From here we wandered down a market street making our way to the Chao Phraya River, but after watching the massive boats spending along the huge canal - we decided we'd rather get home by foot and followed a smaller canal that provided an insight into normal Thai life (complete without the millions of tourists that come to Bangkok).

We made it to a major intersection where a large crowd was gathering, and after asking around a bit we found out that the Malaysian Queen was due to be passing in a while. We gave up waiting after a while and headed for the Golden Mount - a large temple on a hill, but unfortunately this was closed, for the Queen's safe passing.
The Adlibing way of wandering around, without following the tourist trail, provided some gems with as much sparkle as the main tourist attractions. First we slipped into a temple dedicated to female disciples, and then found ourselves at a street Muay Thai training gym perched on the edge of the canal. As we made our final walk home the Queen's convoy finally came zooming by and we're pretty sure we got a glimpse of the lady herself waving our way as we waved the Thai and Malaysian flags (with the Democracy Monument in the background)!! By the time we made it home we were completely and utterly exhausted but managed to feed and hydrate ourselves and jump on the internet to say happy birthday to Iona back in NZ.

Adlibing an exhausting walking tour.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Day 640 - More shopping!

Even though we shopped ourselves to the ground yesterday, we went in for more today. However, instead of cooking ourselves in the outdoor oven, we made our way to the MBK - one of Bangkok's biggest shopping malls. Here we found where all the Thai people have been hiding since we got here!! The MBK is like any mall back home, but about 10 times bigger, and much cheaper - this is the curse that soon emptied our wallet and loaded our arms with bags!!
Our purchases were mainly things we need for travelling - the joy of malls means that everything we meed is in one place, it's just a matter of finding them. The most exciting purchase of the day was some cute shoes for Liv!
On our way back home after a full day of shopping we stopped off at the temple just across the road from our hotel (in fact you can see it from our window) - here the golden roof sparkled in the sun as orange-robed monks wandered the grounds.

Adlibing MBK.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Day 639 - Bargain hunting in Bangkok

Our mission for today was to book our train tickets north for in a few days time. This didn't happen till lunch time as we slept in - we're putting this down to travel fatigue from our last few weeks in India!!


Buying the tickets was such an amazing experience - it was so efficient and organised. We're pretty sure we're going to love it here. We did get asked by one or two ladies outside if we wanted their help, but compared to the onslaught we'd have gotten in India this is nothing!

After this we made our way by metro to the huge Chatuchuk Park weekend market, where we almost collapsed from the heat and overshopping we did! The amount of stuff at this market is amazing - there is absolutely anything and everything you could possibly want! We stuck to getting some clothes for back home, but enjoyed looking at everything else.


On one of our breaks from the heat we continued our love affair with Thai food - though we both ate by ourselves as Adam went to the street for cheap fish soup, while Liv sat in amongst the shoppers and had pad thai! Later we cooled down with a fresh mango and ice smoothie, before retracing our steps home, laden down with all our shopping!!

As the bus wove its way through hectic China town on our way home we were reminded of our ingenious naivety from our first Thai trip - we turned up with no guide book, our only help to tour the country received from the airline magazine!! Nevertheless, we managed to adlib our way around China-town (even though we were going to live in China for over a year afterwards!), which turns out to be one of Bangkok's highlights.


Adlibing the massive market.

Friday, March 6, 2009

Day 638 - Terrific Thailand

We woke up at Kolkata airport (we are getting kinda sick of sleeping in airports), and after going through all the security stuff, waited in anticipation of leaving India and arriving in Thailand. On the 8th of June 2007 our Adlibing Asia tour began in Bangkok, and today, 21 months later, we return to where it began!

After our 2 hour flight we landed in Bangkok and were immediately gobsmacked with this clean, organised, civilised world we're somehow descended into. The contrasts with India are everywhere, do dramatic that we're experiencing quite a culture shock, despite still being in Asia. Amongst our first thoughts during our bus trip were: where are all the people? why is it so quiet (don't these drivers crash without using their horns incessantly)? where do they put all the rubbish?

We jumped off the bus right next to the famous tourist street of Khao San Rd, and wondered if we'd actually arrived on Cuba St in Wellington. We mean, aren't there any Thai people in Thailand?!! We found a sweet room (with clean sheets - where are we?!!!), then Adam fell asleep despite numerous mumbles of 'I'm just resting'!

In the evening we went out for our first Thai meal, and loved every second of it! Liv had pineapple veges and tofu, and Adam dived straight into a green curry - we know we're going to love eating here!!!

The rest of the evening was spent wandering the streets, attempting to absorb some of the bustling Bangkok atmosphere, before our bodies gave out with exhaustion and we retired to our rooms.

Adlibing it to another planet.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Day 637 - Saying goodbye to good friends

Today we woke up almost in Kolkata, and as we were only here a week ago we managed to make it to the backpacker area cheaply and quickly. As the 4 of us crammed into our taxi we wished we had earplugs to relieve us of the consistent, painful soundstrack of India - particularly during peak hour traffic where although the traffic is at a standstill every man with a horn in front of him feels the need to constantly attack the airways with it!
We had brekky, Clinton and Dan found a room for the night (we're sleeping in the airport tonight, again), and we found internet for the boys to work on job applications, while we relaxed with the knowledge that we still have 4+ months of the happily homeless and unemployed travel lifestyle.

In the evening we went down to the local park where the boys engaged in some adlibed exercise, with PT Adam running the twins into the ground! Staying fit and strong while travelling isn't always easy with such good food and such cheap transport to take you from place to place. We do our best to walk as much as we can, but with the boys with us Adam is loving having someone to motivate him to do more.
On the way back we stopped off to help a friendly Indian with his own workout, by ordering 4 fresh orange juices that he created with the help of an old school hand cranked juicer. After our final Indian dinner (incidentally Liv's last meal in India was a burger with fries, while Adam stuck to a good ol' Indian curry!) we packed up, enjoyed the boys' company for a bit and then went out for a final chai with friends.
As we made our way to the airport to farewell India, running through our heads are things about India that we really won't miss. So ... goodbye:
- open sewers
- the rubbish dump that covers 99% of the ground
- cows and cow shit
- mangey dogs
- leering men
- tourist prices
- constant hassle from tuk-tuk drivers, shop/hotel owners, and almost the rest of the population
- having to book trains so far in advance
- open air shitters (anywhere a man feels like doing his business)
- the constant stink of India
- 1 billion people
But before you think there's nothing good about this country, there are plenty of things we will miss:
- chai
- delicious Indian curries
- tandoori rotis
- smiling old men (too old to bother trying to rip us off)
- max retail prices printed on products
- cheap transport and food
A final thought to leave in India:
"we're sorry India, for mot spending as much as you wanted us to."

Adlibing it outa here.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Day 636 - Monks and bunks

Today was our final day in Bodhgaya so we spent the morning having a lazy breakfast and getting our bags packed. Basically, we're just living the typical travellers' life of having people cook and clean for us - well they always cook, and we're not so sure about the clean here in India!

In the afternoon we all went down to the temple to sit under the Bodhi tree to lose ourselves amongst the different colours of the monks' robes - the maroons of the Tibetans, the orange of the Sri Lankans, Thais, and Burmese, and many others. Bodhgaya was a really good place to pretty much end our India trip - there is still the filth and hassle that's everywhere in India, but the temple provides much needed peace.

We caught a death defying rickshaw ride into Gaya where we found the noisiest place on earth for some food and card playing before our train back to Kolkata. Unfortunately our train was almost 3 hours late so the 4 of us sat on concrete benches and chatted the time away - Adam also managed to bless the boys and give them something to remember us and Bodhgaya by!! We hope it gives them good lucky for the rest of their trip!Around midnight we clambered onto the train and found our beds to try and get some sleep.

Adlibing it under the tree.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Day 635 – Resting our weary bodies

After the body bashing bike day yesterday, today we all slept in before spending the day watching NZ get thrashed in the cricket, eating, and chilling out at home. We’re enjoying having the company of good friends – it’s a nice touch of home and awesome that in this huge world 4 friends can still find each other.

It’s especially cool to be able to catch up with Clinton and Dan before they settle into life in the UK – it might be years until we can meet again.
Aftr dinner we made our way to the temple where we strolled around barefoot, basking in the unpretentious spirituality - there are so many different kinds of people and nationalities here, all engaged in devotion in their own ways. We tested our devotion and skill with an almost impossible coin task, while enjoying the rhythmic chanting of the monks floating our way on the breeze.
Adlibing it with friends.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Day 634 - Biking to Buddha

Even though we got up pretty early this morning so we could start our day of biking before the mid day heat, we weren’t early enough as most of the bikes in town had already been hired out. After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing we finally got together 4 bikes and set off towards the Dungeshwari Temple caves about 12km away from Bodhgaya.
Along the way we stopped for a game of cricket with some local boys, aiming not to hit the cows and goats that occupied the makeshift field. Back on the bikes one of the cricket boys thought he would be helpful and lead us to the caves, but instead he led us to a hilltop temple, which even though was not the place we were aiming for it gave us great views over the village below.
Since we were stuck in the mid day heat we stopped on the side of the road for some fresh orange juice before turning off the main roads and onto a bumpy dirt road that snaked its way through outlying villages. The villages were really nice, simple places to bike through – obviously not many tourists cycle their way through, so we were greeted by excited kids, parents, and grandparents all happy to send us in the right direction with a smile.,
Our journey to the caves was painfully prolonged with Adam’s bike being broken and required him to jumped off every 1 to 100m to put the chain back on!

At the temple we visited the cave where Buddha spent some years meditating before going to Bodhgaya and becoming enlightened. The cave was peaceful and very simple, and we met some friendly Burmese monks and their visiting family.
The journey home was a test of endurance for the boys who took turns towing each other on Adam’s shitty bike. Even though this was tiring it was much better and quicker than Adam’s greasy fix and peddle journey there, or him walking the bike home!
Back in town we hydrated and fed up after neglecting those requirements for most of the day, and back at the guesthouse Adam took the boys through a yoga strength session on the rooftop, with the stars watching from above. Eventually all crashed out in bed, absolutely exhausted.

Adlibing a day on the bikes.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Day 633 - Enlightenment (?) under the Bodhi tree

Bodhgaya is famous for being the place where Buddha attained enlightenment under a Bodhi tree. So today we went to the Mahabodhi temple here and sat under a Bodhi tree on the same spot to see what would happen ...
Even though we didn't get enlightened (or did we - how exactly do you know?) we saw lots of people in different stages of meditation, worship, and happiness. We joined in the mad scampering to collect the Bodhi tree's leaves as the fell our way in the wind, and enjoyed the peace and quiet impossible to find on the streets outside the temple.
Afterwards we wandered the streets, weaving between different coloured pilgrims (Buddhists from all nations come here to seek their own form of life philosophy) as we made our way to the Great Buddha statue, unveiled by the Dalai Lama in 1989.
After lunch we wandered passed typical Indian scenes such as the piles of rubbish scattered everywhere, or the more enjoyable water buffalo having the afternoon swim amongst the water lillies. In the afternoon we relaxed back at the guesthouse before going out in search of food! It's so awesome having buddies to hang out with, new people who haven't done everything you've done for the past 2 years, and can follow the fast paced kiwi accent!!
Adlibing it in Buddha's path.

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Day 632 - Waiting for the reunion

The main reason we decided to come to Bodhgaya was to meet a couple of friends from back in NZ - Clinton, who Adam lived with during his MBC years, and his twin brother Dan. They were making their way from Varanasi and due to arrive in the evening so we spent the day catching up on sleep and refueling the body with proper meals.

We finally found a phone so we could call home to new mum and dad, Mindy and Martin, to have a chat about our gorgeous wee nephew.

When the boys arrived we caught up on travel stories and future plans before making our way to dinner, streetside chai (tasted sweet, but the our noses battled with the sewer under our feet), and then played cards late into the night.

Adlibing it with friends.

Friday, February 27, 2009

Day 631 - Bumping it to Bodhgaya

As we got off the train today at 5am we were bombarded by rickshaw drivers who had all correctly assumed we were going to Bodhgaya, and incorrectly assumed we could afford to get our our rickshaw there. Instead we waited for sun-up, while sipping on chai, and then caught a share rickshaw that bumped and bashed us there for a tenth of the price!

Once in Bodhgaya we searched for a good room, and then promptly fell asleep! The accumulated weariness of 5 days travel and 4 days hard sleeping, we felt a snooze was well deserved. The Adlibing adventure isn't always a holiday in many respects, and although we're not working we feel like we work for our experiences!
When we finally woke up we had our first shower in 5 days and found food, which made our new location seem that much more enjoyable! We soaked up a bit of the street atmosphere,checking out some of the Buddhist temples and glancing at stalls full of Buddhist bags, clothing, prayer beads, and all other things associated with Buddhism. Despite the sleep we were too tired to do much more and headed back to our books for our first night's sleep in a bed in far too long!

Adlibing a bed.