Monday, June 23, 2008

Day 382 - Climbing up and down volcanoes

Our driver and his wife arrived bang on our 8am departure time, and immediately gave us a fright when a police officer took the front seat - however our personal protection hopped off at the end of the street, seemingly only getting a lift to work! The first stop was at a medicinal spring, however the adlibing budget didn't justify Y60 to walk 5 minutes in, drink some water and then walk back out - also, given that we lived in Jinan the "Spring City" for almost a year we decided we didn't need to see more springs. So from here we clarified the destinations we'd wanted to see, for the rest of our personal 6 hour tour! On the positive side, the 30 minute drive through the farms littered with lava rocks was a great start to the day.

Our first proper stop was at the Wudalian Chi Scenic Area, where we climbed Laohei Shan - the number 1 attraction of the area. This mountain is one of the volcanoes that erupted in the 1700s, sending lava into the air and splattering the surrounding countryside with huge lava fields. At the top of the mountain we came face to face with a jagged-edged crater, which we took our time circumnavigating - as from this high vantage point we were able to look out on many other of the 14 volcanoes in the area, the lakes created by the eruptions, and watch the National Park road snaking its way through the forest and lava fields below. Down the bottom of the mountain we once again ignored the roped off section of a perfectly good walkway that we had paid perfectly good money for (right in front of a security guard, who couldn't care less), and made our way to the Fairy Palace. The palace was a cave hidden under lava, but funnily enough the entrance was blocked by a steel door when we got there. However, we did get the walkway to ourselves, and got to walk out onto the hardened lava rocks, which spread for miles in all directions.

We made our way back to our driver by walking through the ocean - the stone ocean that is - another huge lava field, with views of an almost completely self-destructed volcano in the distance. Back on the road with our driver we asked him to stop at 2 points on the map, which sounded like forests and parks, but turned out to be a few trees on the side of the road?!
The drive continued to be spectacular, as we weaved amongst the trees, and eventually popped out at what in the past would have been a river crossing but now is a lava created dam between lakes 2 and 3, of the 5 that give the Wudalian Chi (Five Big Lake) Area its name. We stopped here for some photos, and while most other tourists would stop here for lunch of lake fish, we passed, and continued on our way.

Our next stop at the Lava Ice Cavern wasn't quite as expected, but interesting nonetheless. The cave was formed from hot lava, and maintains negative degree temperatures year-round - our mistake was in assuming that the ice sculptures would also exist year round, but we did get to walk through the cave and experience the tacky Chinese fluro lighting we're used to by now. In short, the cave was cool but probably not worth the Y40 without the sculptures. Given that we were in the caves for only 15 minutes, we're glad we didn't hire the jackets available, as our merinos did us just fine!
From there we went to the Stone Village, and explored the beautiful green forests that are intertwined amongst huge expanses of lava fields! For over an hour we had the area to ourselves and made our way along boardwalk-like pathways that skimmed the top of the sea of lava that spanned out as far as the eye could see. All in all, we're pretty glad we decided to make the 5 and a half hour journey from Harbin to come here (which we're doing in reverse tomorrow) - the effort was definitely rewarded!

Adlibing the lava fields.

WUDALIAN CHI VOLCANO PARK TRAVEL TIPS:
- Our tour guy turned out to be trustworthy and gave us what we were expecting. We didn't pay till the end, and they had a supply of tickets which you can buy from them instead of the ticket offices if you want. The wife's name is Shi Chao, and her contact phone numbers are 13555246598 and 13945736575. We paid Y150 for the whole van, for 6 hours. Because we were by ourselves we chose when and where we went.
- The springs all seemed expensive for not a lot, so we didn't go in.
- The main park is well worth the Y80.
- The Ice Cavern wasn't so amazing in summer - probably awesome in colder months.
- The Longmen Stone Village, was pretty and quiet, but not much different from what we'd already seen at the stone sea in the main park.

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